Showing posts with label Scratch Building. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Scratch Building. Show all posts

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)


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By Gabriel Staples
Written: 14 June 2014
Posted to blog: 3 Aug. 2014
Last Updated: 26 May 2018
History (newest on TOP):
-20180526: Added Velleman desoldering review & link.
-20170415: converted basic Amazon links to Amazon Affiliate links; updated many of the solder links too, and prices on many links
-20161126: updated many links, incl the broken ones from Radio Shack; also added several new sections, including bonus soldering irons, rosin flux, high-power irons & torches, acid-core solders & acid fluxes, & how to tin a soldering iron tip.
-20141008: added an advanced "drag soldering" link at bottom
-20140905: added more soldering iron links, & solder tip tinner/cleaner link, as well as quite a bit more info.
-20140830: added more info about soldering irons "for Radio Control" use; also added "intermediate" links to the soldering tutorials section at the end

Related Articles:
Here is a list I put together to help people get into soldering & electronics.

DIGITAL GENUINE HAKKO FX-888D, from Adafruit.com
Keep reading below for more info.


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Monday, July 15, 2013

The "Staples Stingray" Glider Sneak Peak!


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-Bungee-launched, Free Flight....and flights up to 250 ft. altitude and 1/5 of a mile far!

...Pictures, Videos, and more...

This is a sneak peak at my $5 "Staples Stingray" free-flight, bungee-launched glider I have very recently finished designing, modifying, and testing!  The design is a modified version of the FliteTest Nutball RC airplane, which is a modified version of the original Nutball by GoldGuy.

By Gabriel Staples
Written: 15 July 2013
Updated: 19 July 2013 (added more videos)

(for links to more videos, go to the bottom of the post) 

Related Articles:

I have been spending quite some time now (about 3 months), figuring out how to build a SIMPLE, INEXPENSIVE free-flight glider for the Boy Scout troop I work with, and this is what I came up with!  I really think this plane does the trick, and it's tons of fun to launch, fly, and even chase and try to catch!

Here's a description of it that I wrote in my "Getting into Scratch Building...." article above.  Click the link at the top of this post to read that article as well:

"I have even prototyped and tested, for my local Boy Scout troop working on the Aviation merit badge, a $5 free-flight glider based on the NutBall, which is capable of being bungee-launched (via a home-made $25~$35 launcher) to altitudes up to 250 feet, and flying several hundred yards distance in a single flight!  My wife named it the Stingray (see photo of a stingray below), since the glider resembles a stingray flying backwards.  I would like to post the plans and video of the Stingray glider and bungee launcher when I get the chance, so other Boy Scout troops and do-it-yourselfers can make one too....


 I have also designed and tested what I call a "training fin" for the NutBall, which can easily be velcroed onto the top of the plane in order to make it self-right (roll level automatically) whenever it is banked.  This is really useful for a beginner as well.  (More to come on this; I need to write a post on it still too)."
Here are some sneak-peak photos of my new Stingray Free-flight glider below.

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Monday, May 27, 2013

A Few Tips & Tricks: Arduinos, PCB Tricopter Frames, Home-made Acid Etchant for Copper


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By: Gabriel Staples
Written: 28 May 2013
Updated: 30 Oct. 2013
-added link to LadyAda's Arduino Uno FAQ
-added link to Arduino Nano V3.0 on Ebay

Other Articles You May Be Interested in Reading:

So, this month I've been dabbling into a few new RC airplane areas that I have previously not looked into.  You may wonder how these topics in the title relate to RC airplanes?  Well, for me, everything does :), so let's briefly discuss:

Arduino & Microcontrollers:

What is Arduino?  Well, Arduino is a small interface board which connects to your computer via a USB cable, and consists of an Atmel microcontroller chip, or "brain," which can do a variety of functions and processing, as well as circuitry to enable you to connect to it via a USB cable, in addition to a voltage regulator and input and output ports.  Basically, it is a development or experiment board which allows you to plug in sensors and circuitry and do anything you can imaging via your own personal ingenuity and programming skills---yet it is inexpensive and simple enough that anyone can get started.  It is especially designed for the non-programmer.  Here is Arduino's description of themselves.  A few things that make Arduino unique are its price, ease of use and programming, and the fact that it is open-source.  Open-source means that its parts, pieces, construction, and coding are all available to the public, and that its software is FREE.  This is the counterpart to "proprietary," which means that something is owned by a company and its internal workings are generally guarded and kept secret in order to prevent others from duplicating it.

You might not know it, but the microcontroller, or MCU, which is the heart of the Arduino, is a very common-place item in today's electronics.  Modern RC radio transmitters use them, for example, as well as ESCs (Electronic Speed Controllers) and "smart" battery chargers such as the Thunder AC680.
 Many UAVs (Unmanned Aerial Vehicles) use microcontroller-based autopilots!  Now, with Arduino,

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Friday, March 1, 2013

Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor & ONE Power Pod!


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Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor & ONE Power Pod!

By:  Gabriel Staples
Written: 1 March 2013
Last Updated: 21 Feb. 2015
-added "Reinforcement" section below - 20 Feb. 2015
-added the entire "Which Foam to Buy" section, incl notes on Dollar Tree foamboard & depron - 8 Feb. 2015
-added a link to my new free-flight Stingray glider I mention below - 16 July 2013

If you have any questions or comments while reading this, or any other article, please post it in the comments section below the article.  Thanks!

Related Articles:

So, over a year ago now I discovered the Flite Test NutBall and Delta Wing (both wings, separated from the power pod, are shown in the picture above and to the right).  These planes are unique in that FliteTest came up with the ingenious idea to use a single motor, speed controller, and receiver combination in order to power multiple airplanes!  This is a fantastic solution, as it allows someone to get into this hobby VERY economically, and all of the planes are built using Dollar Tree foamboard (ADAMS Readi-board), shish kabob (bamboo) skewers, hot glue, popsicle sticks, and packing tape!

As of today, I have built and flown both the NutBall and the Delta Wing, and love them both.  I have even prototyped and tested, for my local Boy Scout troop working on the Aviation merit badge, a $5 free-flight glider based on the NutBall, which is capable of being bungee-launched (via a home-made $25~$35 launcher) to altitudes up to 250 feet, and flying several hundred yards distance in a single flight!  My wife named it the Stingray (see photo of a stingray to the right), since the glider resembles a stingray flying backwards.  I would like to post the plans and video of the Stingray glider and bungee launcher when I get the chance, so other Boy Scout troops and do-it-yourselfers can make one too (for a sneak peak of the glider, see my new post here).  As for the FliteTest airplanes I've built, the NutBall is especially a blast to fly for an advanced pilot, yet can be gentle

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Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Building the FliteTest NutBall Swappable


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By Gabriel Staples
Written: 13 Feb 2013
Updated: 25 June 2013

THIS DOCUMENT IS INCOMPLETE, BUT HAS MANY GOOD LINKS, PICTURES, AND RESOURCES BELOW.  IT WILL BE FINISHED IF PEOPLE BEGIN REQUESTING THAT I FINISH IT, OR IF THERE ARE MANY QUESTIONS ABOUT IT, WHICH YOU CAN PUT IN THE COMMENTS SECTION BELOW THIS POST.  

--Since FliteTest has already done so much to support the build of this aircraft, it is likely that the links and pictures I already have below will suffice.  Be sure to check out my Center of Gravity section below, however, as it pertains specifically to the 24" diameter NutBall, which FliteTest does not build.  As you will see in their links below, they prefer to build their 19 1/3" version of the NutBall.

If you have any questions or comments while reading this, or any other article, please post it in the comments section below the article. Thanks!

Related Articles:
So, one of my friends I just helped get into RC was looking at my article above ("Buying Parts for the FliteTest Nutball Swappable - All at Once") the other day, and he asked me if I could post some dimensions, pictures, etc., and a few notes about how I built the airplane.  So, that's why I'm writing this post.

1st: Watch the Build Videos and Read the Flite Test Articles:
-Even watching the non-NutBall Build Videos will give you valuable building tips.  At a bare minimum, watch the Power Pod and NutBall build videos, as they both give you tips and tricks necessary to successfully build the NutBall:

  1. Power Pod Build:  http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-swappable-power-pod-kit
  2. Power Pod Electronics install:  http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-swappable-connecting-electronics 
  3. NutBall: http://flitetest.com/articles/nutball_scratch_build 
    1. The new FliteTest NutBall build video
    2. The original FliteTest NutBall build video (I like this build video better)
  4. Delta:  http://flitetest.com/articles/DeltaScratchBuild
  5. FT Flyer:  http://flitetest.com/articles/ft_flyer
  6. You may also check out this article here, titled, "Swappable Nutball and Hots Dart"

2nd: Download & Assemble the Plans
-Download them, then print them, cut off the edges of the paper as necessary, and tape them all together to make full-size plans:
-I noticed that FliteTest has updated some of their plans in the articles above, so feel free to use those.  However, if you want the exact ones I have used to successfully make several NutBalls now, here they are:

All plans are available here.  To download them, click on the file you want, then go to File --> Download.
A brief description of the files is below.
(Note: I originally got the NutBall plans from page 2 of this RCGroups build thread.  The NutBall was originally made by "GoldGuy," if I'm not mistaken.  Then, FliteTest simply came along and made a swappable fuselage for it, and made it into one of their most popular planes in their "swappable series.")
  1. NutBall_full 17''.pdf - these are the 17 inch diameter plans.  I don't use these, but here they are in case you want them; I prefer the 24" diameter NutBall.  This is a one-page view.
  2. NutBall_tiled 17''.pdf - these are the 17 inch diameter plans, tiled so that you can print them out on a regular printer, cut off the excess paper, and tape them all together to get full-size plans.
  3. NutBall_24_tiled - build this one!!! (will require 2 sheets of 20'' x 30'' Dollar Tree Foam).pdf - these are the NutBall plans I use. They work great.  I prefer the 24" NutBall over the 17" of 19" NutBall, by the way, because it is still very easy to use Dollar Tree foamboard, and it has waaaay more wing area than the 17" or 19" versions, so it will have a much lower wing loading and hence be able to fly much more slowly.  It will have more of a "floaty" feel to it (which is good), than the other two versions, assuming all other things are equal.  
    -For your information, the 17", 19", and 24" diameter versions of the NutBall have wing areas of 908 in^2, 1134 in^2, and 1810 in^2, respectively.  That means that the 24" diameter NutBall has 99% more wing area than the 17" NutBall and 60% more wing area than the 19" diameter NutBall.  Again, this means it can carry much more weight and/or fly much more slowly.  
  4. swappable fuse & Delta fins (print ''poster'', 100%, w-Cut Marks, Labels, & 0.5in overlap).pdf - this file contains the swappable fuselage plans I used for my NutBall and Delta wing.  It also contains the Delta wing fins if you want them for building the swappable Delta wing plane.  Using Adobe Reader X, print as the instructions say in the file name (ie: poster, 100%.....etc).  The fuselage, firewall, and delta fins are to scale, but the landing gear is not.  It's shape is correct, but not its size.
  5. swappable delta (print ''poster'', 100%, w-Cut Marks, Labels, & 0.5in overlap).pdf - Delta plans.  here they are if you want them.

3rd: Buy the Airplane Parts:
Estimated cost of airplane only, with *no* electronics: $5~$15.
Estimated cost of optional colored packing tape (for decorating): $5~$45, depending on how many colors you buy.
Estimated cost of building supplies: $25~$40.
  1. Airframe:
    1. two $1 sheets of 20"x30" foamboard from the Dollar Tree (note: this is ADAMS brand foamboard).
    2. 1/8" plywood sheet (maybe 8"x10") from the Hobby Lobby balsa sheet rack in the back of the store ($1.79 last I checked I believe)
    3. $1~$2 pack of 100 shish-ka-bob (bamboo) skewers from Walmart (in the BBQ section of the Garden Center) or wherever
    4. Jumbo popsickle (craft) sticks at Walmart - pack of like 100 for a couple bucks - to be used to make the 2 control horns
    5. (music wire)
  2. Landing Gear (optional; note: plane is easier for a beginner to land *without* landing gear, since you can just safely belly land it *anywhere* in a large grass field, without having to worry about needing a smooth surface or accidentally flipping it over due to the wheels catching):
    1. (wheels)
    2. (Wheel Collars)
    3. (Music Wire)
  3. Building Supplies:
    1. Tape:
      1. Packing Tape:
        1. $1 roll of cheapo clear packing tape from the Dollar Tree
      2. Fiberglass-stranded Tape (mandatory item, use as the build video shows):
        1. Scotch Strapping Tape (small roll): OR
        2. Duck brand Strapping Tape: OR
        3. Scotch Extreme Packing Tape:




    2. Hot Glue Gun:
    3. X-Acto knife, box-cutter knife, razor-blade knife, or equivalent, $0.50~$8 (note to self: add link to X-blade knife & blades on HK)
    4. Precision Screwdriver set: --add link to the Husky set I have, as well as the decent Harbor Freight set.


4th: Build the Plane!
Estimated build time (this does not include electronics installation):  4.5~5.5 hrs. for the experienced builder, including electronics installation; 6~10 hrs. for the novice builder.
Tips:

  • The Jumbo Popsicle Sticks are used to make control horns.  Click here for the file, then go to File --> Print.  Make sure to print the file Actual Size, NOT Shrinking it or Fitting it to a Page.
  • 1.94" high parts box, for wingtip polyhedral......follow build video

















5th: Buy the Electronics
...


6th: Install the Electronics & Balance the Propeller
...



7th: Center of Gravity (C.G.), Maiden Flight, and Trimming
After much flight testing and probably hundreds of flights, here's my Center of Gravity recommendations for the 24" diameter NutBall:
Ideal CG: 5.5"~6.0" back from the leading edge of the wing, measured right along the wing root (ie: down the centerline).  The CG on this plane, however, can be about as far forward as you want (I didn't go farther forward than ~5.0"), and as far back as 6.5".  With a CG of 6.5" the plane can be very fun to fly and with large control throws does back flips (EXTREMELY tight, approx. 3 ft. diameter loops), and flat spins very well.  However, inverted flight is horrible with the CG at 6.5" back, as the plane is somewhat unstable and hence trims out with some down-elevator.  For nice inverted flight, 5.5~6.0" back works nicely.




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Saturday, February 2, 2013

This is What My NutBall Can Do!


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By Gabriel Staples
Written 3 Feb. 2013

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This is a short (very windy) flight review and verbal description of my FliteTest Swappable NutBall airplane.  It flies great, is a blast to fly, and is a solid, economical aircraft!  I made it for ~$70 or so with *everything* I needed, minus the Tx and charger.  I also used home-made jumbo pop-sickle stick control horns.  Despite its 3-channel control, it is very maneuverable and acrobatic, as the video shows, yet with small surface deflections and a reasonably-sized motor, it can also be a very docile and forgiving flyer, well suited to a beginner.  As a matter of fact, with a moderately-sized motor (120W~200W) (or using a 300W 3S motor on a 2S LiPo), and with small control throws, I'd say this airplane is a solid beginner airframe (but slightly skewed more towards the intermediate side of the beginner spectrum).
With a hot 300W high-speed setup and large control surface throws, as in this video, however, it becomes an exciting intermediate to expert airplane.  The setup in the video has a top speed of ~60mph, and in a dive, I've approached probably 80mph.  The first time I did that, however (not recorded :( ), the high speeds caused the vertical stabilizer to flutter and snap nearly off.  It folded down against the body and made a loud "snapping" sound as it slapped against the body.  I quickly slowed down and the vertical stab. popped back up part way and I made a safe landing in the grass.  A bamboo shish-kabob skewer embedded in the vertical stab, and some hot glue, fixed this problem.  
I used Dollar Tree foamboard (20" x 30") sheets, x 2, to make this airplane.

List of Recommended Beginner parts for the NutBall can be found here:  http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/buying-parts-for-flitetest-nutball_31.html.

PLEASE FEEL FREE TO LEAVE QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS BELOW.


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Thursday, January 31, 2013

Buying Parts for the FliteTest NutBall Swappable - All at Once


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By Gabriel Staples
Written: 1 Feb 2013
Updated: 16 March 2014
-added warnings about using the wrong prop with the wrong motor
19 July 2014: Hey look! Hobbyking sells a small, EPP (ie: very durable foam) version of the Nutball now!  See here.

Related Articles:

So, this week I built a NutBall (see my NutBall in action here) to give to a friend turning 18.  He has no RC equipment whatsoever, and I am only giving him the airplane, with no electronics.  Here it is all ready to go (see picture ot the right).  It only took me a little over 4 hrs to put together this time, since I've done this a few times before.  It just needs the motor, battery, ESC, servos, etc.

For a good introductory-level beginner setup, for someone with absolutely no equipment, who just wants the basics, here's what I'd recommend:

Note: if any items are back-ordered (the stock status is listed at the bottom of each item on HobbyKing, to the left of the price), then you may want to do two separate orders: one with in-stock items, and the other with out-of-stock/backordered items.  This is to help speed up the shipping, as standard shipping takes 3~5 weeks from Hong Kong, and waiting for a back-ordered item can hold up your order an additional 1 week to ~2 months+ or so (backordered items usually mean about 3~4 weeks extra waiting, but this can be longer or shorter).  (So....you may be wondering why I don't purchase elsewhere with this type of slow shipping......well, here's my reasoning:  If you want something quickly instead of inexpensively, remove several of the items below because they are so difficult to find elsewhere, then multiply the price of the remaining items by a factor of 3 or 4, and that is the price you can expect to pay at many store-front shops).  
My recommended Order List (Electronics Only, not airplane parts and hardware) is as Follows:
  1. Transmitter (Tx) and Receiver (Rx), HobbyKing HK6S $29: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16239&aff=281904 - Note: one really nice feature about this transmitter is that it has a low voltage alarm which turns on at 8.5V to help you know when your transmitter battery is low.  When the red LED starts to blink, and the transmitter begins beeping, it is time to change (or charge, if applicable) the transmitter battery. 
  2. ESC:  Turnigy Plush 30A, $12: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=2164&aff=281904  
  3. Motor, Turnigy D2822/14 Brushless Outrunner, 1450 kv, 160W, $8: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12916&aff=281904
  4. 3.5mm bullet connectors to connect ESC to motor, $2:   http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=68&aff=281904
  5. Heat Shrink tubing (3mm, 4mm, & 5mm in red AND black), ~$2 total:  3mm red3mm black4mm red4mm black5mm red5mm black
  6. HXT900 9g servos x 3 (1 for a spare), $2.70 each x 3 = $8.10: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904 
  7. 3mm prop savers (will need to be drilled using 1/8" drill bit to slightly enlarge hole), $3: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8240&aff=281904
  8. SF 9x6 Props (these are excellent propellers to use with the motor above and the 2S LiPo battery below; WARNING: do NOT use these props with the motor above and a 3S LiPo, as it will pull too much current and burn up the motor), $3:  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9846&aff=281904
  9. APC-Style Props, 7x5E (this is the ideal propeller to use with the motor above and the 3S LiPo battery below; note: though it is perfectly safe to use a 2S LiPo with this prop, and the plane still flies fine, it will have reduced power and speed when using this prop with a 2S LiPo; therefore, if you want better power, use one of the larger props in this list when using the above motor with a 2S LiPo), $2, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=22424&aff=281904
  10. APC-Style Props, 8x6E x 2, $1 each x 2 = $2 (these are also good with the above motor and a 2S LiPo; WARNING: do NOT use these props with the motor above and a 3S LiPo, as it will pull too much current and burn up the motor), http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=5438&aff=281904
  11. 2S LiPo Battery, 1300mAh x 2 or more (for lower-speed flight), $8 each x 2 = $16:  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11902&aff=281904
  12. 3S LiPo Battery, 1300mAh x 2 or more (for higher-speed flight), $9 each x 2 = $18: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11903&aff=281904
  13. XT60 connectors x 1 pack, ~$3.50, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904
  14. Battery Voltage Checker, $10: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=19946&aff=281904 and/or this one, with beeper (to notify you when your battery is low, so you can land), $4: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18588&aff=281904 
  15. Cheap Charger & Power Supply, $11:  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8247&aff=281904  
  16. LiPo-Safe Charge Bag, $3: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4364&aff=281904
  17. Velcro, $2.50 (this stuff is better than anything in a local store, and 1/3 the price, so I really recommend it--a mandatory item to secure your batteries to the plane): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9374&aff=281904 
  18. Quick connectors/EZ connectors for push-rods, $1.50, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8519&aff=281904
Item Total: ~$149
Guestimated Shipping, based on past experience: ~$35'ish
Order Total: ~$185

My recommended Order List (for Airplane Parts, Tools and Hardware is as Follows: 
  1. Dollar Tree foamboard, $1/sheet x 2 sheets = $2 for the 24" NutBall version (get plans for it on my post here).
  2. bamboo skewers (ie: Shish Kabob skewers), 12" long, 1 pack of 100 or so, $1~$2 at your local store
  3. 2mm (0.078") diameter music wire, for the landing gear, ~$3.50 at your local RC hobby shop or toy train store, or ~$10 (with shipping) on Amazon here
  4. 1.19mm (0.047") diameter music wire, for the control rods, ~$3 at your local RC hobby shop or toy train store, or $8.33 (with shipping) on Amazon here
  5. control horns, $0.50, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8235&aff=281904; or, as I prefer, build your own from jumbo Popsicle craft sticks (see here, under the 4th section, called "Build the Plane").  
  6. 50mm wheels, $3, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10404&aff=281904
  7. 2.1mm wheel collars, $2, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8408&aff=281904 
  8. X-blade knife, $1, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9332&aff=281904
  9. extra X-blades, $1/pack x 3 packs or so = $3, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9333&aff=281904
  10. simple prop balancer, $1.50, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14927&aff=281904 (I have this nice one, if you want it instead, $20:  http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHY61&P=ML)
    1. Having a well-balance prop can potentially make a huge difference in minimizing vibration and power losses and prolonging your equipment life.
    2. For propeller-balancing instructions, techniques, and tips, read the Top Flite Power Point Propeller Balancer manual, pgs. 3-6, here:  http://manuals.hobbico.com/top/topq5700-manual.pdf. Of the three methods described in the manual, I prefer "method 2" (using super glue and accelerator to add weight to the back side of the light blade on the propeller).
  11. super glue, medium viscosity, with clog-free cap, $2.50 (I love these caps, and this glue is 1/3 the price as you'll find elsewhere): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7173&aff=281904
  12. super glue accelerator, $5 (this stuff allows the super glue to cure instantly, and is necessary in order to balance a propeller), http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8456&aff=281904
Item Total: ~$30
Guestimated Shipping for the HobbyKing portion of the order, ~$12
Order Total: ~$42

Grand Total: $185+$42 = $227
Note: this may seem like a lot, but REMEMBER:  most of this equipment is support equipment you have to buy ONE TIME (ex: batteries, charger, glue, radio transmitter, battery voltage checker), or parts that come in bags with enough pieces for 2~4+ planes (ex: prop savers, wheel collars, music wire, control horns, velcro, bamboo skewers).  Not only that, but the power pod is swappable!  THEREFORE, THE COST OF YOUR NEXT PLANE WILL ONLY BE ABOUT $15~$20, OR LESS, IF YOU USE THE SAME SWAPPABLE POWER POD but buy new servos, OR ~$70~$80 if you buy a new motor, speed controller, battery, and receiver.  See how cheap this can be once you get started!?

Miscellaneous Extras to buy locally:
  1. Clear Packing Tape at Walmart or wherever else you choose to buy it. – good for repairs where the full stickiness and strength of strapping tape is not needed.
  2. Scotch strapping tape at Walmart, Meijer, or wherever else you choose (strapping tape has fiberglass strands running down it), or on Amazon here for only $5.09!
  3.  ***Dual temperature*** Hot Glue gun and glue, ~$15 (with glue sticks) from Walmart.  “Dual temperature” means that the glue gun MUST have dual heat settings, high/low so that you can use low setting when you need to and not melt the foam plane, yet you still have high to help it heat up faster and get more sticky on surfaces that can handle a little more heat (hotter = more sticky). You can also buy a good one of these glue guns from Amazon here:  http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Technologies-0443-Two-Temp-Cordless/dp/B001689XCQ <-- Note: I own this exact glue gun and it works well. It works fantastic for RC planes and has a nice, precision tip and hasn’t broken on me with regular use in the past 4 years I’ve had it. If the glue ever gets jammed (has happened a few times after being on high heat for very long periods of time), pull the glue stick out, pull off the melted portion that may be getting stuck in the gun, re-insert glue stick, and continue use.  I use the “high” heat setting to heat it up quickly, then I switch to “low” once it’s hot so I don’t melt the foam.  About 1 minute before each use, I switch back to "high" to get the glue sticky and easier to squeeze out, then during use I switch back to "low" so it doesn't get too hot.  This process can take some practice, but ultimately you know the glue is hot enough when it is hot enough to burn you if you don't roll it off your fingers, but cool enough to *not* burn you if you *do* roll it off your fingers.  You're smart, figure it out. :)  So far that I have found, the quality can’t be beat for its price, though better dual temperature glue guns do exist.
  4. 8 AA batteries for the transmitter

Please leave your comment below:  So, would you recommend this list of parts for a NutBall to a friend?  Why, or why not?


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